DIY stickers

Portrait 3 Print and Cut Gift Labels

Hi Everyone! Only a few more days until Christmas and I’ve still got quite a bit of gift wrapping to do! I always seem to run out of the little sticker gift tags very quickly. So this week I’m going to share a quick way to make your own using my Portrait 3 and the Print and Cut feature.

To do this project you will need the following: (links below may be affiliate links)

Some clip art (you can download my snowflake here for free)

Printable Sticker Paper (I’m using this one from Online labels)

Inkjet or laser printer

Silhouette Portrait 3

Autoblade

I’m going to open Silhouette Studio and create a new file. I’m using the business version, yours may look slightly different if you do not have the business version.

I turn on the registration marks so I know where to place my artwork and these will also be printed to the machine knows where to cut.

Print and Cut stickers portrait 3

I’m going to do these matless (I love being able to cut stickers matless!) So under the Design area menu my Cutting Mat will be set to None. My Media size is Letter 8.5 x 11.

Print and Cut stickers portrait 3

I load my snowflake PNG file (it’s pretty big when I first bring it in) and I scale it down to about 2 inches. You can scale it to whatever size you wish. I’m also going to change the red lines around the snowflake to transparent so they don’t print later.

Print and Cut stickers portrait 3

Then I’m going to create an offset around the outside of the snowflake, this will be my cut line. I make my offset 0.125 inches from the edge of the snowflake.

Print and Cut stickers portrait 3

Next, I’m going to make a rounded rectangle so I can add a To and From area onto my label. I make my rectangle approximately 2 inches wide by 0.75 inches tall.

Print and Cut stickers portrait 3

The I’m going to Weld my rectangle and the offset cutline together so I have one continuous shape to cut.

Print and Cut stickers portrait 3

I add the To and From text in the rectangle area. I’m using the Lucida Grande font at 10pt. You can use whatever font you prefer.

Print and Cut stickers portrait 3

I’m going to group everything together and now my label is ready to be duplicated. I can fit 9 of these labels within the print and cut area. Make sure your artwork is NOT falling into the grey mesh areas too much, it can mess with the machine when it’s trying to scan the registration lines.

Print and Cut stickers portrait 3

Now it’s time to print my labels! First, I tried printing directly from Silhouette Studio and I got some glitchy lines in the To and From letters. So instead of printing directly from Silhouette Studio, I’m going to save my design as a PDF and print from Photoshop.

Print and Cut stickers portrait 3 glitch

To save your file as a PDF from Silhouette Studio, click on the printer icon. Then in the bottom left corner, click on the dropdown menu and select Save as PDF. Name your file and save it to where ever you want on your computer.

Print and Cut stickers portrait 3 save as PDF

Open the PDF that you just saved in Photoshop, or other application the can print PDFs if your don’t have Photoshop. Make sure you DO NOT scale the file when you print it. Now everything looks like it’s supposed to!

Print and Cut stickers portrait 3

Back in Silhouette Studio, I’m going to the Send tab and I always like to cut my files by Line color. My cut lines are red, so I make sure the box is checked next to the red square. I want my stickers to be kiss cut so my setting are as follows - Material is Sticker Paper, White; Blade depth: 2; Force: 14; Speed: 3.

Print and Cut stickers portrait 3

I load my printed sticker paper with out the mat and press Send in Silhouette Studio.

Matless kiss cut stickers Silhouette Portrait 3

My machine scans the registration marks and starts cutting. Once it’s finished I have a set of little snowflake gift labels to help me finish my gift wrapping!

Kiss cut stickers Silhouette Portrait 3

Cutting Full Sticker Sheets with Your Cricut - Part 3 - Final Cutting

Hi Everyone!

This week we’re going to take everything we’ve practiced so far and cut our final sticker sheets!

I’m using matte sticker paper from Online Labels. I’m printing them on the same Epson SureColor P600 printer that I used for my test prints.

I’m going to print one sheet initially to compare with one of my test prints from last week. I’m checking to make sure my stickers are printed in the same place on my sticker paper as the plain paper.

I am printing directly from Illustrator, but this time I’m hiding the cut lines layer, so the grey offset will not print on my actual stickers.

Printing stickers from Illustrator

Remember, make sure your print dialog box says DO NOT SCALE the artwork.

Printing stickers from Illustrator

My sticker paper is just a hair longer than my plain paper, the excess length is at the bottom of my print. So I have to keep that in mind when I’m placing the sticker sheet on the mat.

Printing stickers from Illustrator

I’m going to carefully place my sticker sheet within the black lines on my mat, the longer bottom edge will slightly overlap the bottom black line.

Cutting stickers with Cricut machine

I’m using the same cut lines that I already uploaded to Design Space for my test cut.

Cutting stickers with Cricut machine

For this sticker sheet I’m going to do a Kiss Cut. So far I have found the Washi Sheet material setting works best for kiss cuts for this particular brand of sticker paper. I have to click on Browse All Materials to find the Washi Sheet material, unfortunately I keep getting an error when I try to save it to my favorites, so I have to search for it every time.

Cutting stickers with Cricut machine

I load my mat like we practiced in Part 1 and press the Go button.

I check my cuts, everything looks good. So now I’m going to print and cut a few more! If you want die-cut stickers, try the regular sticker paper setting or the light cardstock setting. You may need to do 2 passes to cut all the way through the backing paper.

Cutting stickers with Cricut machine

This process is very tedious when you’re first starting, so don’t expect perfect results right away. But once you learn all the little nuances of your Cricut machine and your printer you won’t need to rely on the Print & Cut feature and you can cut full sheets of stickers!

Cutting Full Sticker Sheets with Your Cricut - Part 2 - Test Printing

Hi Everyone!

This week is another important step when creating full sticker sheets to cut on your Cricut Machine.

I always print a few test sheets on plain paper before I cut the actual sticker paper. Once you learn all the little nuances of your machine, you will probably be able to skip this step. But when you are just beginning to using this method, it’s best to practice, practice, practice before jumping into using your expensive sticker paper.

I already set up my artwork in Adobe Illustrator with my offset cutlines. If you need some guidance on creating offsets in Illustrator, you can check out my previous posts here and here.

Kitty Sticker artwork in illustrator

When I set up my art files in Illustrator I have 2 separate layers. First, the ARTWORK layer that we will use to print our stickers directly from Illustrator. Second, the CUTLINE layer that we will export as an SVG and import into Cricut Design Space.

Layers in Illustrator

Very Important: My cut layer contains a bracket in each corner of the 8.5” x 11” artboard. This is going to help us line up the cut lines in Design Space. Make sure you include these brackets when you set up your file!

Kitty Sticker artwork in Illustrator

For my test print, I’m actually going to print the grey cutlines with the artwork so I can really see how far off my machine cuts and make the appropriate adjustments.

I’m using an Epson SureColor P600 printer, but you can use any inkjet printer for this method. I do not recommend using a laser printer for this method. Since laser printers use heat, you will run into shrinkage issues with your paper and your cuts will be off unless you calculate the proper shrinkage. The shrinkage is very minimal, but it is noticeable.

I’m going to print 3 copies of my artwork on plain paper so I have a couple of extra to practice.

Your print dialog box will probably look different , but make sure the image is NOT SCALED when printing.

Print settings

Check your printouts carefully to make sure they are straight and the artwork is is the same position on all 3 printouts. If the artwork is shifted, at all, in any of the printouts you will need to test and/ or adjust your printer to make sure you are getting the same print placement everytime.

Checking print placement

After checking your print outs, carefully place one of the printouts inside the rectangle on the mat that we prepped in last weeks post. Take your time when doing this to make sure your paper is properly aligned within the rectangle.

Test Print placed on mat

Now we’re going to open our cut lines only in Design Space. I exported that layer as a separate SVG from Illustrator and imported it into Design Space.

Check that the dimension of the imported artwork are 8.5” x 11” like our file in Illustrator. Those very important brackets that you put in the corners on the artboard in Illustrator help ensure that the dimensions remain 8.5” x 11.

Cut Lines in Design Space

ATTACH all of your elements, and the press MAKE IT.

Those very important corner brackets are also going to help keep your artwork in the proper place in the upper left corner of the mat, but not beyond those red border lines in Design Space.

Cut lines in Design Space

I select Copy Paper and Default pressure for my material settings.

Now I carefully load my mat into the machine like we practiced last week, and press GO!!

After the machine is done cutting, load your mat and let’s check the results!

So on my first attempt, my paper is placed just a hair too high up on the mat. So for my next try I’m going to try to do a better job aligning the bottom edge of my paper to the bottom line that’s drawn on the mat.

First Cut Attempt

My 2nd attempt is much better! Remember it’s never going to be absolutely perfect, there are so many variables that go into this process and there will always be some level of human error. But it’s up to you how much time and effort you want to spend trying to perfect your cuts. Also, the more you do it, the better you’re going to become.

2nd Cut Attempt

Since the offset on my actual stickers will be white, I’m ok with my second attempt. I’m really going to focus on lining up my paper along the bottom line on my mat for my future cuts.

2nd cut attempt

If you are doing a colored offset, make sure you add some bleed around the edges so if it cuts slightly off there won’t be any white showing. Also, a wider offset will make a slightly off cut less noticeable.

Next week we’ll print on the actual sticker paper and cut some stickers!

Spellbinders Glimmer Foil with the WRMK Foil Quill

Links in the article below may be affiliate links.

Hi Everyone! Last week I tried out the Spellbinders Glimmer foils with the Cricut Foil Transfer tool and my Cricut Maker, and I got some pretty decent results. This week I want to try the foils with my WRMK Foil Quills since they are actually intended to be hot foils. So here we go!

I am most excited to try the holographic foils. They transferred okay with the Cricut Foil Transfer tool, but the holographic effects were kind of lost.

I started out with the gold glittery foil on my heavy white cardstock with the medium foil quill. There are some little spots where the foil didn't transfer completely, especially in my filled shapes. But you can see the glittery effect much more that you could with the foil transfer tool.

Spellbinders Holographic Foil with Foil Quill

I tried it out again on black cardstock with some different single line drawings. Again, some spots where it didn’t completely. The holographic effect was also not as noticeable on the black cardstock. So overall, the gold holographic glitter didn’t do great on cardstock.

Spellbinders Holographic Foil with Foil Quill

Next I tried the silver holographic foil on black cardstock. Also, some spots where it didn’t transfer completely, especially in the filled shapes. But you can see the iridescent effect, especially when you hold the card at an angle. It’s really difficult to capture in a photo, but the iridescence is there!

Spellbinders Holographic Foil with Foil Quill

Then I tried the regular metallics. First, the copper on black cardstock, still with the medium tip. It transferred BEAUTIFULLY!!

Screen Shot 2021-06-13 at 10.54.11 AM.png

After that I tried the gold on my heavy white cardstock. It also worked beautifully!

Screen Shot 2021-06-13 at 10.56.19 AM.png

I decided to give the holographic foils one last shot on some glossy clear sticker paper. First, I tried the gold holographic glitter with the medium tip. It transferred REALLY well to the sticker paper, and you can see sparkly holgraphic effect. (again, super difficult to photograph, but it looks really good in person).

Spellbinders Holographic Foil with Foil Quill

Finally, my personal favorite, the silver holographic foil on the clear sticker paper. It is so pretty and transferred perfectly.

Spellbinders Holographic Foil with Foil Quill

Overall, the holographic foils didn’t work great on cardstock, but they are gorgeous on my clear sticker paper. The regular metallics worked really well on cardstock, I didn’t test them on the sticker paper, but I imagine they would work great on that as well.

I’m really excited to try these foils with my Silhouette Portrait 3 machine where I can actually adjust the speed and pressure for the foil quill. I will post about that next week!